Back to Mariner 31

Mariner 31   SPECS

I = 34.25 / J = 12.75 / P = 29.75 / E = 11.92 / P2 = 18 / E2 = 9.58

LOD.....30'10"

LWL........25'8"

BEAM.......9'9"

DRAFT....3'8"

DISPL......11,500 LBS.

BALLAST....5,000 LBS.

BAL/DISP. RATIO...43%

SAIL AREA..468 sq.ft.

SA/DIS.RATIO...13.97

BEAM/LEN. RATIO...2.601

MOTION COMFORT...32.51

CAPSIZE RATIO...1.71

HULL SPEED....6.8 knts.


 

Rigging and Fittings List for Far East Mariner 31, Ketch

Based on Murre, M31 - Hull # 150, 1972

January, 2006

STANDING RIGGING1          

Name of Part

Number Required

Overall Length
(pin to pin)

Wire Size2

Wire Type/Material2

Fittings (H = Head, F = Foot)2

Head Stay

1

35'  4"

  1/4

1x19 SS

H = Swageless 1/4 eye with 1/2 pin3
F = Swage stud 1/4 x 1/2 RH, Open Turnbuckle 1/2 x 1/2 with toggle and 1/2 pin to 4 inch long x 1 1/2 inch wide x 1/2 inch deep oblong plate with 1/2 opening on top and 5/8 opening below with 5/8 pin to toggle with 1/2 pin4

Main Upper Shrouds

2

34'  1 1/4"

  1/4

1x19 SS

H = Marine eye 1/4 with 1/2 pin5 
F = Swage stud 1/4 x 3/8 RH, Turnbuckle 3/8 x 3/8 with toggle and 3/8 Pin6

Main Lower Shrouds, Forward

2

19'  6 7/8"

  3/16

1x19 SS

H = Marine eye 3/16 with 3/8 Pin
F = Swage stud 3/16 x 5/16 RH, Turnbuckle 5/16 x 5/16 with toggle and 5/16 Pin

Main Lower Shrouds, Aft

2

19'  10 3/4"

  3/16

1x19 SS

H = Marine eye 3/16 with 3/8 pin
F = Swage stud 3/16 x 5/16 RH, Turnbuckle 5/16 x 5/16 with toggle and 5/16 pin

Mizzen Upper Shroud

2

23'  8 1/4"

  3/16

1x19 SS

H = Marine eye 3/16 with 3/8 pin
F = Swage stud 3/16 x 5/16 RH, Turnbuckle 5/16 x 5/16 with toggle and 5/16 pin

Mizzen Lower Shroud

2

13'  7"

  3/16

1x19 SS

H = Marine eye 3/16 with 3/8 pin
F = Swage stud 3/16 x 5/16 RH, Turnbuckle 5/16 x 5/16 with toggle and 5/16 pin

Split Backstay

 

 

 

 

 

    Upper piece

1

20'  5"

  3/16

1x19 SS

H = Marine eye 3/16 with 3/8 pin
F = Marine eye 3/16 with 3/8 pin

    Lower pieces

2

17'  4 1/2"

 

 

H = Marine eye 3/16 with 3/8 pin
F = Swage stud 3/16 x 5/16 RH, Turnbuckle 5/16 x 5/16 with toggle and 5/16 pin
The lower eye of upper backstay piece and upper eyes of lower backstay pieces meet and are sandwiched between two triangular SS plates.  Dimension of each plate is roughly 2" x 2" x 2" and 3/32" thick.

Triatic

1

16'  5 7/16"

  3/16

1x19 SS

H = fork end swage 3/16 w/3/8 pin7
F = Swage stud 3/16 x 5/16 RH, Turnbuckle 5/16 x 5/16 with toggle and 5/16 pin

Main Topnlift

1

tbd

 

7 x 19 SS

 

Mizzen Topnlift

1

tbd

 

7 x 19 SS

 

 
       

RUNNING RIGGING

         

Name of Part

Number Required

Overall Length

Size rope/wire

Material rope/wire

Spinnaker Halyard

1

92'

  3/8

Yacht Braid

 

Spinnaker Topnlift

1

77'

  3/8

Yacht Braid

 

Jib Halyard

1

82' overall
50' rope
32' wire

rope 3/8
wire 5/32

Yacht Braid
wire 7 x 19

 

Jib Sheets

1 pair

38' each side

  1/2

Three braid

 

Jib Furling line

 

 

 

Yacht Braid

 

Main Halyard

1

77' overall
50' rope
27' wire

rope 3/8
wire 5/32

Yacht Braid
wire 7 x 19

 

Main Sheet

1

51'

  3/8

Yacht Braid

 

Main Jiffy reef

1

 

 

 

 

Mizzen Halyard

1

43' overall
23' rope
20' wire

rope 3/8
wire 5/32

Yacht Braid
wire 7 x 19

 

Mizzen Sheet

1

34'

  3/8

Yacht Braid

 

Mizzen Jiffy reef

1

Tbd

  3/8

Yacht Braid

 

Mizzen running backstay

1 pair

Tbd

 

 

 

Notes

  1. I’ve taken pains to be accurate; however, I’d be happy to correct these measurements if errors are found as others use them.  More importantly, please note that these are measurements for my boat and may not be exactly yours.  Specifically, Murre’s house under the main mast has acquiesced over the years: 1/8” or ¼”I couldn’t say, but maybe not enough to matter given a 3” run on a turnbuckle.  Additionally, the main has about a 3* aft bend.  As far as I can tell, all else is “factory”: masts, head rig, chain plate placements are all original to the boat. 
 

Measurement Method: prior to pulling the rig, I measured and recorded the threads available both above and below every turnbuckle on the boat to within 1/32nd of an inch.  The calipers were a bit rusty I admit, but the rain on that day soon loosened them up.  After pulling the masts, all shrouds were removed and laid out, one by one, in the rigging yard.  The turnbuckles were returned to their original position, and the shroud was pulled good and taught with the tackle from one of the running backs and then measured.  These measurements are pin to pin.  


  1. Wire size, type, fitting styles, types etc., are included here for reference purposes only and I make no claim that they are best for the boat.  I re-rigged three years ago when I couldn’t have told you the difference between a swaged and a poured socket.
  2. The swageless eye at the top of the head stay is Norseman, but could be any brand.  A swageless fitting is employed here because, among other things, its shank is shorter than a swaged eye, and thus is not overridden by the head of the furling rig, which comes to within an inch of the base of the Norseman’s shank.  In my opinion, this area is the most stressed out part of the entire rig.  It was one broken wire between the top of the furler and the base of the swage that caused me to replace all in 2002.  Other areas looked fatigued, but the thought that I’d been sailing with a broken wire for as much as a year … well …
  3. Head stay hardware is the heaviest of any on the rig, partly because the stay must carry heavy furling gear, and partly because, on my boat, the furling gear must carry a 150% genoa.  Notice that the insertion of a thick, oblong, stainless steel plate to the fittings below the turnbuckle allow 360* movement without unusual wear on the pins.  Very important.
  4. With the exception of the Triadic, the head fitting on all other shrouds is a swaged eye.
  5. The base of all shrouds terminates in a swaged stud to open turnbuckle to toggle.
  6. The head fitting on the Triadic is a swaged fork.